Zipfit - Are You Drinking the Koolaid?

I'm not sure why I was so reluctant to replace my ski boots, especially considering that I've pretty much hated them from the very beginning. Most likely, I dreaded the time-consuming boot fitting and figured it would be more miserable than simply dealing with my pathetic old boots. But today I finally reached the limit of my patience and stormed down to Christy's Sports in search of Steve Bagley himself. Steve is a Salt Lake boot fitting legend, and I figured if anyone could find something appropriate for my callus laden, bone-spurred, too wide at the ball, too narrow at the heel, high arched, Cinderella's ugly step-sister feet, then it was probably Earl. Long story short, he and Jason, a co-worker at Christy's, were able to set me up nicely in a pair of DalBello Storms.

During this lengthy process, I was truly amazed by the rabid Zipfit adoration of not only the boot fitters but also a majority of the customers in the shop. Jason had suggested that I consider a Zipfit liner, and I'd casually responded that "they look a little gimmicky to me". The moment I uttered the words, a hush fell over the shop, and I had the distinct impression that I was about to be mauled. Everyone surrounding me suddenly loomed as zealous born-again Zipfitters prepared to condemn me for my blaspheme. I quickly backed down and after much schooling in Zipfit lore, I gave in and ponied up for a pair.

They don't come cheap -- at Christy's they range from about $300-$450, but my options were quite clear -- convert or be sacrificed to the snow gods. I opted to Zipfit. Unfortunately, my epic fitting session ended just after the lifts closed, and I won't yet have a chance to report as to the extent of my true believer-ed-ness. So, I'll check back in as soon as I can head up to the Bird again. 'Till then, if you've problem feet like myself, you might well check out these puppies. I for one am hoping everyone else is right and that they truly are the path to ski boot enlightenment.

Progress toward a more bike-friendly SLC

I've heard other cyclists speak longingly of Portland (now ranked number 2 in the world's friendliest bike cities) and other places like Boulder, Davis, and San Franciso. Unfortunately, Salt Lake is rarely considered by locals to be safe for cyclists. This is rather incongruent with the fact that Salt Lake is generally considered one of the outdoor meccas of the United States, if not the world. I was surprised to find that the typical reaction of my friends and family after learning of my decision to bike commute to work was a mixture of shock and concern. Apparently, the streets here are perceived by most as harrowing and dangerous places- owing to the preponderance of drivers who range from the uneducated (and thus don't know how to safely react to cyclists) to the inconsiderate to the down-right pathological. In my own experience, a hand-full of drivers have frightened me well enough so that I am especially appreciative of the exemplary drivers who are observant, considerate, and safe. And yes, such drivers do exist in Salt Lake. My sincere thanks goes to each and every one of them.

However, recent events like last week's horrible crash involving Andy Chapman, a local climber and cyclist and all-around great guy have given me much to think about. Andy was Life Flighted to Provo Hospital for treatment of several major injuries after going through the window of a van whose (uninsured!) driver had cut him off. Thanks to the heroic actions of Adrienne Burke, Andy survived and is currently recovering quickly, but past tragic incidents have proven fatal. Reading through the online comments to the KSL and Deseret news coverage of the incident, it is clear that the cycling and motorist communities are rather polarized. The the solution to bring these two groups together and dispel the animosity underlying the fight over sharing the road is as yet elusive. However, this "problem" deserves our immediate attention as is not likely to go away (as some groups might hope). Indeed, continuing gas price hikes ensure that collisions involving motor vehicles and bicycles are, unfortunately, more likely to increase in frequency.

Still, there is hope for Salt Lake. I was surprised (and delighted) to see new green bike lanes downtown this afternoon. These bright green swaths were introduced on September 17th by Salt Lake's mayor, Ralph Becker, and appear square in the middle of the right-hand lane. They serve as a reminder to drivers that it is, in fact, legal for cyclists to ride in the center of a travel lane. These markings are not meant to replace bike lanes and will be kept as a year long experiment. Of course, we will have to wait to see if they help to increase motorist's awareness of cyclists, but it's definitely a good to see of the city admit that sharing the road is an issue worthy of attention and is taking steps to improve the situation.

What do we do with all this?

I'm very interested in a number of environmental issues, but to be completely honest, I often don't seem to make the time to do the proper research myself. Recycling and waste management has been in this category. Lucky for me, the National Geographic magazine has an excellent article this month entitled "High-Tech Trash" that answers a number of questions I have had concerning what happens to waste, how the U.S. recycling system really works, and what I can do to help. I've included a brief synopsis of what I thought were the salient points, for those who are equally stretched for time, but I sincerely recommend a full reading.

A large section of the article focuses on the dangers of discarded electrical components (referred to as e-waste), which often contain lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, and beryllium, among other toxins. A staggering number of computers, monitors, televisions, and cell phones end up in U.S. landfills or sit in storage, with much of the rest being shipped to developing countries, where the effects are abhorrent.

The article also covers recycling in general. Some illustrative graphs are included in the magazine but unfortunately not in the online version. One depicts the energy saved in the U.S. by using recycled as opposed to virgin material. Recycled aluminum, carpet (interesting, and heretofore completely unknown to me), and copper wire offer the largest energy savings, with LDP, PET, PETE, and HDPE plastics trailing closely behind. Recycling glass and most papers, however, results in relatively little energy savings. Even so, paper is the most commonly recycled item in the U.S. (in an absolute measurement of annual tons- I'd personally like to see it as a percentage of what is produced annually), while, for example, very little aluminum and copper are recycled.

The article even touches on excess packaging, a topic brought up in a post on this blog not too long ago by powstash. Indeed, packaging waste goes beyond what we see in the stores. Consider the products that come to us from abroad. These items likely have additional debris associated with overseas shipping; including wrapping film, bin liners, and shipping crates. In answer to powstash's question, *they* (being the EU) instated a Packaging and Packaging Waste directive in 1994 which calls for manufacturers, retailers and others in the product chain to share the recycling burdens of packaging associated waste, but it says nothing of reducing the waste in the first place. Moreover, the U.S. has been slow to adopt a similar stance.

While many may already be aware of the harm caused by our castaway devices, few know exactly what we can do to help. One method is to reduce our consumption in the first place.
Another involves choosing environmentally responsible products. Epeat.net provides an EIA (Environmental Impact Assessment) of desktop computers, notebooks and monitors. What can you do with the stuff you've already purchased? See below:

Cell Phones

• Some charities provide donated cell phones to seniors and victims of domestic violence. Find donation bins at electronics stores and libraries. For options visit recyclewirelessphones.com or collectivegood.com.
• Wireless carriers also accept used phones.
  

Computers

• Most companies accept used computers from customers buying new ones (but generally only if the old computer is the same brand as the new one). Some office supply store chains accept old computers for a fee.
  
• The National Cristina Foundation connects computer and monitor donors with the needy (people with disabilities, at-risk students , and economically disadvantaged persons). See cristina.org for more details.
• Keep in mind that donating newer models can earn you a tax deduction. Inquire with the organization you choose to donate to.
  

Batteries

• Retail stores selling rechargeable batteries will often accept used ones, including small sealed lead-acid batteries from power backups. See call2recycle.org for locations.

Printer supplies

• Used toner cartridges can be refilled (for a fraction of the cost of new cartridges) at retail stores; including Walgreens, Staples, and Office Depot. However, there is some debate as to the reliability of refilled cartridges.
  
• The same cartridges can instead be traded-in (often at the same place you originally purchased the cartridge) for cash or discounts on subsequent purchases.
  
• Collecting used cartridges for recycling can even be a profitable fund-raiser for groups.

Miscellaneous

• Reputable recyclers will properly and safely scrap unusable electronics; however, they sometimes charge fees to do so.
  
• For a list of recycling companies that have promised not to export hazardous waste or dispose of it in landfills, check the website of the Basel Action Network, a group that advocates green solutions to e-waste issues: ban.org/pledge1.html.
  

Pretty in Pink?

While I was up at Snowbird for this year's Octoberfest, I decided to poke around the clearance sales at Christy's and Cliff sports. Because I'm a light and not very aggressive skier, I mostly have to stick with women's skis. As I was looking everything over, I kept wondering why every last darned women's ski seemed to have some shade of pink or purple on the graphic. There were a few blue or red exceptions, of course, but the overwhelming majority of skis were... well... pretty awful.

In the end, I bought a pair of K2 Phat Luv's (that should provide me with the ability to plow through crud that I was aiming for) despite the fact that I think the purple swirly girly graphics are just plain silly (in the store, the saleswomen looked offended when I jokingly referred to them as the Phat Ugs). Ultimately, how your skis- or bike or climbing shoes or the countless other women's specific outdoor items- look doesn't really matter all that much. And maybe for most girls like myself, the super swirly cutsie poo graphics are just mildly annoying. This is of course, supported by the fact that I actually did buy the skis. However, I nearly didn't.

But what about the guys who would in truth be better off with a women's bike frame or a women's boot? Not many have the self assurance to go blazing by on a hot pink bike, or buckled into some opalescent purple ski boots. Perhaps I am just really ignorant about the whole marketing process, and all these froo froo graphics really do sell more skis, bikes, etc., but it seems to me like they might be missing out on some demographics- like the tom boys (such as myself) and guys with high arches and low volume feet, etc.

Yosemite: The Untold Story

This adventure report comes from Rob Phillips, who figures that by now he has spent over a year total in Yosemite and plans to return as often as possible.


Climbers returning from a trip to Yosemite always tell of seemingly never-ending walls of perfect granite, the brutal but rewarding "slogs" to the top, gorgeous views, and challenges overcome or left waiting to be overcome on the next pilgrimage out there. But what climbers rarely pass on is how great rest days are in Yosemite. As climbers, we will go to some pretty nasty spots seeking out a challenge (VRG etc.), but here in Yosemite- rest days can be just as spectacular as climbing days.

I was lucky enough to spend a week in Yosemite in the middle of May and enjoyed some perfect late spring weather. As usual, I brought along my bike, which makes getting around the valley much easier, since there are paved trails to a number of beautiful spots. I spent my time biking around, lounging on the beach, hiking to some gorgeous views, and in general, enjoying the beauty of the area.

So the next time you're in Yosemite to send your sick proj', make sure to set aside some time to take in the splendor and beauty of the National Park.

Oh yeah, while I was there, I also made it up Mr. Natural, the Moritorium, Waverly Wafer to Butterballs, Lower Cathedral sport climbs, and Astroman.

Pretty in Pink?

While I was up at Snowbird for this year's Octoberfest, I decided to poke around the clearance sales at Christy's and Cliff sports. Because I'm a light and not very aggressive skier, I mostly have to stick with women's skis. As I was looking everything over, I kept wondering why every last darned women's ski seemed to have some shade of pink or purple on the graphic. There were a few blue or red exceptions, of course, but the overwhelming majority of skis were... well... pretty awful.

In the end, I bought a pair of K2 Phat Luv's (that should provide me with the ability to plow through crud that I was aiming for) despite the fact that I think the purple swirly girly graphics are just plain silly (in the store, the saleswomen looked offended when I jokingly referred to them as the Phat Ugs). Ultimately, how your skis- or bike or climbing shoes or the countless other women's specific outdoor items- look doesn't really matter all that much. And maybe for most girls like myself, the super swirly cutsie poo graphics are just mildly annoying. This is of course, supported by the fact that I actually did buy the skis. However, I nearly didn't.

But what about the guys who would in truth be better off with a women's bike frame or a women's boot? Not many have the self assurance to go blazing by on a hot pink bike, or buckled into some opalescent purple ski boots. Perhaps I am just really ignorant about the whole marketing process, and all these froo froo graphics really do sell more skis, bikes, etc., but it seems to me like they might be missing out on some demographics- like the tom boys (such as myself) and guys with high arches and low volume feet, etc.

Gear Review: G3 Targa T9 Roxy Telemark Binding

The Women's G3 Targa T9 Roxy Telemark Bindings are both burly and (at 35.6 oz per pair) very light at the same time. I'd been a bit worried at first, as I tend to be pretty rough on my gear (in general), but these bindings have held up extremely well. The cables seem really strong (especially in comparison to my previous Riva Z's), and worked nicely with my Scarpa T2's to provide plenty of stability and control. They did start to squeak during one backcountry outing (which didn't do much for the calm quiet of the afternoon), but I haven't heard peep from them since.

There is a fairly equivalent Men's version- the All Mountain (35.7 oz per pair), which is minimally heavier than the Roxys, but sized for larger boots. Really aggressive or heavier skiers would likely want to opt for the XRace version which have stronger cables and are no heavier than the All Mountains (35.7 oz per pair).

I found the Roxys to be an absolute breeze to mount with the K2 binding system. So easy, in fact, that I even managed a successful mounting despite my customary refusal to look at any directions whatsoever. Paired with my K2 She's Piste, they did rather well both on groomers and in crud up at Snowbird and in deep untracked powder on our annual yurt trip near Wolfe Creek Pass. Overall, these are a fantastic binding for those of you who want to get after it both at the resorts and in the backcountry.

Climbing Gear 101

I get questions about climbing gear from friends just getting into the sport pretty often. So I finally decided to compile some of my answers in this post so that I can just direct people here. If you are thinking about getting into climbing, I hope this ends up being useful for you.

The amount of gear that you need will depend on the type of climbing you want to do. If you are planning to climb strictly in a gym, then you may only want to buy shoes. You'll probably also want a chalkbag, and if you want to do top-rope or lead indoors as well as boulder, then you will need a harness and a belay device. If you want to boulder outside, shoes, a chalkbag (which you wear while you climb) or a chalkpot (which is bigger and stays on the ground), and a bouldering pad will suffice. If you'd like to sport climb outside, then you will need shoes, a harness, a rope, draws, and a belay device. For traditional climbing... you'll need removable protection, but I won't get into my advice on that, as that would turn this into more of a treatise than War and Peace.

We'll start with what is the simplest, in my opinion.

Harnesses
For harnesses, most anything will do, but I would highly suggest:
1) Adjustable leg loops
2) Plastic gear loops (I don't like the flexible ones, as they make unclipping draws more difficult when leading)
3) Waist adjusters on either side of the belay loop (this enables you to tighten the harness while keeping the belay loop centered).

For me, the ultimate harness is the Petzel caladris. It is lightweight, has adjustable leg loops and two waist adjustments, the inflexible gear loops are pretty sturdy , and the back is vented to keep you cooler (I'm always sweaty... and for me, the reduction in material for the waist loop is huge). The only problem is that it comes at a pretty steep price ($90).


Chalkbags
Though they are pretty simple, there are a surprising assortment of chalk bags. For the most part, people seem to treat them like an accessory, choosing more for color and design than anything. My criteria for a chalkbag are:
1) Diameter: This is more for people with really big hands. You basically want something wide enough that you don't have to aim much to get your hand into. Consider being gripped and scared on lead and hassling with trying to fidget your hand into your bag to chalk up. I've observed this happen before, and it doesn't look fun.
2) Depth: You want your bag to be deep enough to get your whole hand in there. And everyone knows that there are few things less satisfying that coming up short.
3) Interior material: This is likely a girly thing, but some interiors just feel better than others. I personally like having something cozy to dip into.

Chalk
I personally prefer loose chalk over chalk balls, simply because my fingers tend to ooze when I've been climbing outdoors a lot. If this or sweat isn't a problem for you, you might prefer a chalk ball (I would recommend a refillable one) as they are less messy than loose chalk and might slow your chalk consumption. I use a mixture of powdered chalk and crushed chalk blocks. The powder is useful for overall coverage, and crushing the little chalk clumps with my fingers makes me happy.

Belay Devices
A belay device is essential for sport and trad climbing, and sometimes necessary for indoor use as well, depending on whether your gym provides belay devices or not. There is a continuing debate between Black Diamond ATCs and Petzl Grigris. I personally learned to belay with a grigri. It is an autolocking belay device, which means it will stop the rope without assistance. An ATC, on the other hand, will do no such thing. Some people argue that grigris are safer, while others hold that ATCs are. I contend that the belay device is only as safe as the person who is operating it makes it. Regardless of the device, a proper belay requires focus, attention, and consideration for the leader. Grigris are great for sport climbing or for belaying top ropers, who will often hang on the rope resting for long periods of time, because they will hold the person without constant pressure being applied to the rope. I prefer ATCs for trad climbing, as they are lighter and easier to rappel with. Grigris are about $75, while ATCs run about $25. For the beginner who isn't sure how serious they intend to get about climbing, I would suggest and xATC, which has grooves to help arrest the rope, and I find also work much better than "regular" ATCs for handling the growingly popular "skinny" ropes.

Ropes
Which leads us to ropes (also necessary for sport and trad climbing). I personally prefer Mammut ropes, which seem to last longer than other ropes, and also don't seem to require the break in time of some other ropes. I prefer to buy them with the dry coating (intended for ice climbing), as it seems to keep them from getting as dirty, and improves the rope handling. Sterling also seems to be a good choice, and I would avoid Beal (they wear out really quickly and I hate the handling) and Blue Water (I also dislike their handling. One of their ropes I used was very slick and would shoot through the belay device unless you kept a steel grip on it while lowering someone heavy. The other actually squeeked when lowering which was very unnerving).

The other thing to keep in mind when buying a rope is the diameter. The smaller the diameter, the lighter the rope will be (typically). But as with anything, there are tradeoffs. Smaller diameter ropes wear quicker and will not hold as many falls safely. I would suggest ropes with at least a 9.8 mm diameter if you want to do any trad climbing (a 10mm rope would actually be preferrable). For sport climbing, I have a Mammut Infinity (which is a 9.5mm), and absolutely love it, but I would not suggest such a skinny rope for climbers over 170 lbs, as these strings will wear out much faster for them.

Bouldering Pads
If you only intend to boulder, you'll likely want a pad. Some things to keep in mind:
1) Foam: The denser foams will hold up longer, but will also not provide as soft a landing. I typically go with the densest I can find, as I have seen people twist ankles on soft pads.
2) Straps: Make sure the carrying system is comfortable enough for fairly long hikes. There's nothing worse than arriving at a great bouldering destination sore and/or blistered around the shoulders.
3) Pockets: Some pads come with built in pockets or compartments. These can be very convenient, but I find that a closure system that allows you to stuff everything inside the pad (and keep it there) when you fold it up, is really nice. (The Metolius "fat bastard" and Black Diamond "drop zone" seem great in this respect.
4) Cover material: The bottom line is that you don't want something that holds dirt. You're going to be throwing this thing on the ground repeatedly, and face it. Who actually cleans their crash pads. Black cotton canvas is okay, but ripstop nylon is nicer.
I would suggest any of the Metolius crash pads (The "cheap bastard" from Metolius is less expensive than other pads and seems quite nice). They typically seem to be well engineered, and the foam in mine has held up rather well.

Climbing Shoes
Choosing shoes can be a really difficult. Your best option depends on their intended use, whether it be sport climbing, trad climbing, bouldering, or some combination? Do you prefer something comfortable, or would you be willing to sacrifice comfort (somewhat) for precision?

And, regardless of these issues, fit varies widely from shoe to shoe. My best suggestion is to go to REI (if you have one) or a local mountain shop and try a bunch on. I can briefly explain some of the differences between shoe features.

1) closure system: The trad climbing shoes are typically laceups, which can improve the specificity of the fit and the precision of the shoe, but if you are bouldering or even sport climbing and taking your shoes off fairly often, repeated shoe tying can become tedious. In contrast, there are velcro shoes (my favorite being the sportiva katanas), which are easier to get in and out of but still have a pretty good fit. Then there are slippers, which have elastic, and are baggier shoes- but still nice for something like bouldering or indoor gym climbing- as they tend to be pretty comfortable.

2) last: Different brands have different types of fits. I tend to stick with Sportivas, as I have high arches and they fit me rather well. Five Tens and Mad Rocks seem to fit wider feet. But even these general guidelines can change from model to model.

3) rubber: Five ten and Mad Rock rubber seem to be the stickiest, but they also seem to wear out quicker. Sportivas aren't quite as sticky, but last longer. Boreal arguably has the worst rubber around, unless you do tons of limestone climbing.

4) downturned toes: Traditional shoes will have flat lasts, which are comfortable for jamming your feet into cracks. Sport climbing shoes have downturned toes that put the majority of your power where it should be- on your big toe. These however, are not as comfortable, so if you
plan to wear them hours on end, (think multipitch trad climb) the you'll end up hating climbing. Your choice depends on the kind of climbing you plan to do.

5) synthetic versus leather: Synthetic typically doesn't change shape much. Leather is harder to predict. I've had Sportiva mythos that have stretched significantly, and Sportiva katanas that have shrunk. (I think the shrinking is a result of my feet sweating and then the leather shrinking as it dries out). So be aware of this when you choose your shoe size.

6) sizing: Some people will suggest that you purchase the tightest shoes you can possibly bear. I say that your first few pairs of climbing shoes should be loose enough that you continue to actually climb. You can buy tighter shoes as your abilities improve.

7) which brings me to cost: Keep in mind that shoes will wear out in proportion to the amount of time you use them. I typically have three different sets of shoes (for the gym, sport climbing, and crack climbing), and they rarely last me as long as a year. Shoes are can get *very* expensive, and so if you are simply looking for the cheapest ones around, I suggest the REI members only garage sales, where you can sometimes get good deals on shoes that have only been used a handful of times. If you want an unused pair at a great price, I would suggest Mad Rocks, but if and *only* if they actually fit you. I have a pair that sits in our gear closet, because it feels to me as though they had alien's feet in mind when designing the last.